Seoul

Before I went to Korea, I was not a fan of the country. With thousands (maybe millions) of them flocking here in the Philippines, going there to see more of them didn’t appeal that much. But a brief visit to Seoul changed that. What was that quote? To travel is to discover that everyone is wrong about other countries (Aldous Huxley)

Seoul has no particular landmark that will tell you right away that yes that is Seoul. Not a skyscraper or a mountain or a bridge. But this city has little charms which will surprise especially an unprepared visitor like me.

Incheon airport was impressive, it looked and felt new (to think it’s already 10 years old). My friend quipped it smelled of Germany. I wonder how Germany smelled like. The airport’s information system is as high-tech as one can get. Printed on the carts is this line “Incheon- World’s Best Air Hub”. I haven’t been to that many airports but I think this statement is not far from the truth. (After the trip, I checked some airport stats and indeed Incheon airport ICA has been on the top for the past three years beating its neighbors Changi, HKIA, Nagoya and KLIA in one survey by Geneva-based Airports Council International.) The top airports are all in Asia. Go Asia!

It was supposed to be the start of summer but we were greeted outside the Incheon airport by 12 degrees Celsius temperature. After having my best (and most expensive) Dunkin Donuts meal to date (at 5,200 won=P226 pesos), we took bus 6011 to our hostel in Seoul. The journey took about an hour and a half as we got stuck in morning traffic jam.

Grace and I with a an old friend Egay from UP and a new friend Simone from Italy

We stayed in Inside Backpackers, a hostel rated by Trip Advisor as the top specialty lodging house in Seoul. It was located in a university neighborhood with lots of restaurants, bakeshops and charming shops. If there’s one word I can describe Seoul with, it is charming. The city has little alleys with most shops looking as if they’re from a movie set interspersed with traditional Hanoks.

one of the side streets near Sam Cheong Dong

with Ian, a couchsurfer I met in Nagsasa Cove, Zambales

So aside from the friends I reconnected with, here are some of my experiences in a city sometimes referred to as the Soul of Asia.

• Foggy and very bumpy landing in Incheon (landing and take-off was bumpy)
• 12 degrees Celsius (supposed to be summer already) when we stepped out of the airport
• Uber high-tech Incheon airport
• Ultra modern airport information system (that's why it's the world's best air hub)
• Big new restrooms (uber clean)-smelled like germany according to gracie
• Required seatbelt on the bus
• Excellent Dunkin Donuts variety with misleading prices (discounts reflected on board rather than prices; when everything is in Korean aside from the numbers, how can one figure that out?)
• Singapore-like landscape on the road leading to the airport
• Kia and Hyundai rule in the road
• Tour van driver has been to Singapore (said it as if it's the most normal thing to do)
• Border with guard houses with guards everywhere
• Really young soldiers (20-ish)
• Entered the civilian contoured line
• Took forever to cross the unification bridge because of too many checkpoints
• No pictures allowed on the bus after the first checkpoint
• Watching the border like watching a war movie with no gunfire
• Really cold tunnel (North Koreans dug several tunnels going to the South, we went in the third tunnel)
• Seoul is a city with most number of train university stations I’ve ever seen
• Really young generation who knows how to party
• Cushioned train seats
• More complex train system than Beijing
• Noryangjin wet market has nice lights which made me think it was a furniture store
• Blind beggars walking around train with music
• Train platforms reminded me of Tokyo platforms (already tested by time yet extremely efficient)
• Seoul is less crowded than Tokyo and Beijing
• Seoul has better English than Chinese and Japanese combined
• Naver (play on the word Neighbor)-their version Google with its own street view
• Policeman in a small station used Naver to show us directions
• Changing of guards in Gyongbokgeung palace was made a spectacle for tourists
• I commented on a lady’s nice attire in Filipino thinking she was Korean “ang ganda naman ng suto ni Ate” and she quipped “Ay ako bay un, salamat”

Japan on a Shoestring

The land of the rising sun is known to be one of the most expensive places to go to. Japan is expensive, don’t get me wrong. But you can survive in one of the world’s most expensive cities with ample preparation. I don’t usually have the patience to make an itinerary other than my own. But this recent trip inspired me to make one especially for those in a tight budget.

First, I spent eight days in Japan and those aren’t enough. But since most of us who have regular jobs, have these number of days to contend with. Let’s work on a seven-day itinerary.

For the fare, well one of the highest expense in going to Japan is the plane fare. So scout for cheap tickets. I got mine for a very good deal but the catch is we fly in Osaka not Tokyo. Actually with Osaka as our gateway, Japan’s cultural heritage is within our reach with the Kansai region’s Kyoto, Narra, Himeji, among others. So it turned out it was for the better.

Ten Tips for Japan

1. For accommodations, if you don’t have friends in the area. Try staying in ryokan. These are traditional Japanese inns which serve travelers since the Edo Period. Or you can stay in guest houses which cater to backpackers. In Tokyo, I recommend Koenji guest house. http://kouenji.seesaa.net/
2. Guides, there are a lot of tour guides that offer free services especially in the Kansai region (Kyoto, Osaka, Himeji, Narra).  Here's a link: http://www.visitkansai.com/
3. Food, don’t scrimp on food. Splurge on Japanese food. I was surprised since I was prepared for exorbitant food prices. Surprisingly food prices in Japan are comparable to Singapore’s hawker centers, most oftentimes cheaper.  
4. Transportation, if there’s one thing that makes Japan expensive, it’s the transportation expenses. The minimum cab fare is 710 yen. And the cost from one station to another is 50 to 70 pesos. So good thing, we availed of the Japan Rail Pass which allowed us to ride as many trains, buses, bullet trains (except Nozomi bullet trains) as we want for seven days.
5. Walk, as they say the best way to explore a place is to walk. So walk and walk and you’ll be in for a treat. This is the best way to encounter Japan’s fashionistas.
6. Don’t hesitate to ask for directions. The Japanese are more than willing to help you. They may even accompany you if they have time.
7. Don’t be intimidated by Tokyo or even Osaka’s very complex train system. As I have learned, just divide and conquer. In Tokyo, just take note of the Yamanote and the Chuo Line. The Yamanote Line encircles or makes a loop around the entire city, while the Chuo Line cuts the city "crosswise". The Yamanote Line is where you can find the famous stations of Shibuya, Harajuku, Ebisu and Shinjuku.
8. There is a website that has become my best friend during this entire trip, www.hyperdia.com. Just input your origin and destination and select possible modes of transport. And Voila, several options are presented to you.
9. Watch out for a lot of street performers.
10.  There are not a lot of places with free wifi so if you want internet connection, try a manga kissa. These used to be manga libraries but have evolved to 24/7 internet cafes. Some even have shower rooms. So you can actually spend a night in one of their lounge chairs. And drinks are unlimited in most of them. So if you're in really tight budget, stay in one of those manga kissas.