Oh Batanes, it has been three
years since my first solo trip to the country's northernmost province and I
realized I haven't written about this gem of a place.
I was in Batanes in the summer 2009 in my first solo trip.
On the first day, I hired a tricycle driver to take me
around town. I went to Valugan beach, Fundacion Pacita, the lighthouse near the
town center.
Valugan beach has a unique shoreline with huge rocks of
volcanic origin.
Valugan Beach with its boulders along the beach
Fundacion Pacita,a house owned by the Abads, set amid
rolling hills and cliffs facing the sea, is one of the most picturesque place I
have ever seen.
With my new found friend in front of Fundacion Pacita
The lighthouse, whose name escapes me, is close to the
town center where I enjoyed watching the sunset and regular townfolks getting
ready to go home after a day out in the field.
the lighthouse near town center
On the second day, I decided to join a jeepney tour
around Batan Island. In the tour, I was with a big family from lolo, lola, siblings
to the apos. We visited the house of Dakay Ilongga who moved to Batanes in the
early 20th century. We visited the many sites around Batan, one highlight is
the windy Marlboro country where I felt like anytime the strong breeze would
carry me. We also visited a fishing village which thankfully had a mini sari
sari store which sold the emergency stuff I needed.
Phew, thank God for our sari-sari stores. Although, the
brand was not of good quality, a girl in the middle of nowhere, where
electricity has just arrived, can't be choosy.
small fishing village
On the third day, I decided to go to Sabtang. I went with
Lucky, the son of Ate Tess, the owner of the cafeteria which I frequented near
the guesthouse where I'm staying. He and his friends were going to Sabtang to
attend the town fiesta. So I went with the my new found gang.
When we got to the pier, the
touring family I was with the day before, was also there. Our tour guide
recognized me and put a life jacket on me, thinking I was still part of the tour.
The ride to and from Sabtang is an adventure in itself. After one of the
longest twenty-minute boat ride of my life, we got to Sabtang in one of the
most exciting boat docking I have ever seen. Actually, your boat doesn't really
dock like average boats do. Instead, men would try to hold the boat steady amid
big crashing waves, and assist each passenger trying their best to balance in the
makeshift platform. So there is no pier to speak of. Just people serving as
temporary anchors as our boat gets slammed by one big wave after the
other.
Sabtang Lighthouse as seen from the pier
On that day, I was thankful
Ate Tess, the cafeteria owner, offered his son as guide, because he ended up
renting a motorbike which we took and I ended up riding a motor bike all over
Sabtang island in one of my most scenic rides ever.
taken while I was on a motorbike on our way to the last barangay, Chavayan
Sabtang is a smaller island compared with Batan, thus everybody knows everybody. Walking around town, I bumped
into a college friend's kababayan, I met 102-year old man who had
four kids who died, met a chatty lady who told me there's someone from
Iloilo in Savidug, the man is from Banate, Iloilo! (Check out the similarities
with Batanes). But he had chicken pox so I entered their house and he was all
wrapped in blanket but we chatted, I took a picture of him and his family.
Kids hanging out in an unused window in Sabtang
After going around Sabtang, the
boys wanted to go with Lucky and I to Nakabuang beach, and Lucky said it was walking
distance, yeah it was about 5 kilometers one-way.
walking from Nakabuang to Sabtang town proper
I did not realize I dropped
my shades on our way to the beach, until I saw the familiar object in the
middle of the road on our way back to town. That’s how few vehicles pass by or
passersby pass through that road the whole afternoon.
Just when I thought the day's adventures
were about to end, the boys got invited by the town’s mayor, so we ate at the
mayor’s place. Then our gang decided to part for the day, so I decided walk
around Sabtang, then the mayor saw me and invited me to a tour of the town. He took
me to the top of the hill overlooking Sabtang. Then he took me to the light
house, then the finale, he took me back to Nakabuang beach, on the motorbike.
It was a moonless night so it was really dark. There were a lot of cows
blocking the road. Looking back, I can't figure out how I was able to go through that. While I was riding with the mayor, I was thinking to myself, what am I
doing, riding with a total stranger to a deserted beach. Anyway, I guess I just trusted my instincts with people and so far, most haven't disappointed. It was a moonless night, thus, it was too dark. So we
just looked at the arch and left after a few minutes. When he dropped me off the canteen, the
principal of the only school in town, saw me and invited me over to his sister's
place. I had dinner where I ate ube and gabe as the rice substitute. This has been one of most surpising days of this trip for me.
looking over the town of Sabtang
On my fourth day in Batanes, I
decided to have a good lunch in Fundacion Pacita. They were fully booked at
that time but since I managed to establish rapport when I visited on the first
day (Thanks to good friends), they accommodated me.
view for lunch
I had a sumptuous lunch with
probably one the best cliffside views in the country. I enjoyed eating while
"eavesdropping" on the big group composed of who’s who in Philippine society, discussing
their trips to Paris and Barcelona. Added to the mix are the anecdotes of a
friend who brings her dog to long haul flights in the cabin with special
carriage privileges. The friend they say would rather bring the dog than her
kids. I was not really eavesropping, I couldn’t help but hear their conversations since we were the
only occupants in the dining area.
After they left, the owner noticed me and asked me if I was classmate of her son since I look
familiar. Then she asked why I chose to go to Batanes when some would prefer
going abroad since it is more expensive. I forgot what I said maybe because I
wanted to go somewhere special on my 30th birthday. Then, she
lovingly replied “Anyone who chooses Batanes over an overseas trip, is special.”
After lunch, I decided to walk
a bit and enjoy the scenery. Afterwhich, Kuya the driver fetched and took me to
rolling hills, a place I almost skipped but am glad to go to. Rolling hills is
my last stop for the day in an awesome journey to an awesome place.
rolling hills
On my last morning in Batanes,
I decided to walk to the next town which I figured to be a few kilometers away.
When I got to walk a few kilometers, I decided to hitchhike for the first time
in my life. It was something that didn’t turn out that well. (My second attempt
in hitchhiking was a successful one and it was in a totally different place.) When
I got to the next town, people already know me as the girl who was walking from
Basco to the next town.
This first solo trip felt like that, I feel like a girl who
is walking towards the next chapter.
jumping in Marlboro country